Dove, Dogs, and Shotguns

July 20, 2009

Top 7 Things to do before Dove Season

Filed under: How To, Hunting — Tags: , , — admin @ 10:51 pm

I can’t believe it is already July 21st. In a little over a month I will be waiting for the sun to come up over a field in North Texas. As my plans get finalized, I thought I would put together a checklist to get you ahead of the pack come opening day.

  1. Determine where you are going to hunt. It may be that you go to the same place every year, but if not, make this choice within the next two weeks.
  2. Scout, scout, scout. Did I mention scout? Probably the most important item on the list. By beginning early you will allow yourself time to find another lease if your first choice turns out to be a dud. For more tips on scouting go here.
  3. Practice. If it has been a while since you shot anything but a coral snake in the front yard (took me three rounds), it would be wise to squeeze in a few rounds of skeet. Shooting skeet works out the bugs that can develop after a few months of inactivity. I might also mention that shooting skeet really gets your engines revving for opening day. For some tips on shotgunning go here.
  4. Make the necessary purchases. Things like a hunting license, public land permit, your lease, shells, mosquito spray, shooting glasses, ear plugs, and any new accessories you would like to add to your arsenal. By starting early, you can spread the expenses out over a few pay checks, instead of postponing September’s mortgage payment.
  5. Lodging arrangements. Don’t wait to the last minute on this one or else you might be crashing in your pickup. If you are hunting with a dog, make sure where you stay allows them. It can get expensive if they don’t.
  6. Exercise fido. If your dog has laid around for eight or ten months, you probably want to break out the old decoy and get him a little exercise before you ask him to go retrieve in the 100 degree weather.
  7. Clean your shotgun. For me this is a night before ritual, but it definitely needs to be done. A cleaned and oiled shotgun performs much better than one that hasn’t been taken care of.

If you knock these things out early, all you will have to think about the night before is who is going to get their limit first.

My friends at Impact guns can help you with all your preparations.

Time to RELOAD!

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

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  • Walking the field Perhaps my favorite way to hunt dove is to walk the field for those dove that  have lighted in the field. Of course, if you are in a big shoot with many other shotguns, you can't do this for obvious safety reasons.  However, later in the season this method can be......
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June 24, 2009

The Three Methods of Obtaining Lead when Shotgunning

Filed under: How To, Shooting — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 1:36 pm

Whether you are wingshooting or clay shooting, establishing which type of lead shooter you are will improve your consistency and accuracy.

There are three methods of obtaining lead on a moving target. The “swing through” method, the “pull ahead” method, and the “sustained lead” method. All of which have there advantages and disadvantages. Let’s examine the three.

A “swing through” shooter allows the target to pass the barrel of the shotgun and follows the target until just before pulling the trigger accelerates the barrel past the target, generating the lead. When you hear people coaching “follow through” when shooting, this is the method they are teaching. Much like a golfer or a bowler, even after pulling the trigger, the shooter continues his swing until the target breaks(or not).

I am a “swing through” shooter. I do not see lead, as most “swing through” shooters don’t. Of course this is only perceived, as there is a lead on any moving target, especially crossing shots. By following behind the target and then firing as the barrel moves past the target it gives the shooter the perception of shooting directly at the target. I like this fact because trying to maintain a lead for me seems unnatural.

Critics of “swing through” state that this method puts the shooter behind from the beginning and forces the shooter to wait until the last minute to obtain the proper lead. I find it can cause for “riding” a target too long which makes the shot more difficult and puts me out of position for the next shot.

Next, we have the “pull ahead” method. In my opinion, this is very similar to the “swing through” method. The main difference being that with the “pull ahead” method the shooter points the barrel directly at the target and moves with the target until time to shoot, the shooter then “pulls ahead” of the target to obtain lead and fires. Where in the “swing through” method the shooter trails the target.

Many experts believe this helps to solve the most difficult aspects of shotgunning, target speed and direction. By pointing at the target your brain automatically calculates these variables, enabling you to accurately decide the proper lead.

The third method is the “sustained lead” method. Preferred by many target shooters, “sustained lead” matches gun speed with target speed but instead of pointing at the target, the shooter stays in front of the target at all times.

The idea here is the shooter always stays ahead of the target and is in the right positiion longer, giving the shooter a better chance of hitting the target earlier and more consistently. I’ve also heard this type of shotgunnng referred to as “window shooting”. Basically the shooter leads the target to a particular “window” or predetermined spot and fires.

If I had a recommendation for a beginner it would be the “sustained lead” method. This method teaches to obtain the proper lead early and gives the shooter the most control over each shot. Also, when shooting doubles, it allows for early breaks on the first target , leaving ample time to locate and break the second target.

As for me, I’ve been “swinging through” for years and trying to change that would be like trying to make myself right handed, just not going to happen.

Which ever method you prefer, stick to it and be consistent

I’d love to hear from you which method you prefer, leave a comment and I’ll post the results in a later post.

Time to RELOAD!

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

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May 28, 2009

Tips on Starting Kids Out Shotgunning

Filed under: How To, Shooting — Tags: , , , , , — admin @ 12:19 pm

Starting a youngster out with a shotgun can be a great experience for both of you. If you follow a few guidelines, you can help ensure that you pour a solid foundation. A foundation that will be the basis of a lifetime of hunting and shooting.

I’m not going to try to tell you what age to start kids out hunting or shotgunning. I feel that every kid is unique and only you can decide when your son or daughter is ready. Things like maturity, size, and desire are all things to consider before making the investment. My ten year old wanted to go hunting so bad this year, he was willing to do anything to get a shotgun.

Gun safety is the most important thing you can teach your kids. Kids see a lot of killing on TV and on the video games they play, yet they just don’t realize how dangerous a gun really is. We must instill in them safe practices until it becomes habit. Start with how to carry the shotgun with much focus on where the barrel is pointed at all times. Next move to how to work the safety on the shotgun. The only time the gun is taken off of safety is when the shotgun is mounted and ready to fire. After some practice with handling the shotgun, move on to loading instructions and firing. The key here is to let them know gun safety is no joke, and if they are unsafe, they will lose their privilege to have a gun. Remember, we as experienced hunters, must set the example when it comes to safety. For some more tips on safety, click here.

Also critical to success is the gauge of shotgun you buy your child. Specifically, how much recoil they can handle. Let’s face it, a kid is not going to want to do something if it hurts every time they do it. So buying a ten year old a cheap 12 gauge is probably a mistake.  I bought my 13 year old a youth model 20 gauge, and my 10 year old a youth model .410. Both of my sons are average height and weight and I have had no complaints from either one about recoil. My oldest is a couple of years away from moving up to a 12 gauge in my estimation, and then I’ll hand down his 20 ga. and the .410 to my now 6 year old. The idea here is to build confidence with a shotgun they can handle that won’t make them flinch every time they pull the trigger.

Next is practice, practice, practice. Unless you have acreage, you’ll need a place for them to shoot. I recommend starting them out shooting skeet. The controlled environment allows you to help them every step of the way their first round. Try to plan their first shoot for a time when the range isn’t too busy to help relieve some of their anxiety. Keep all of your instructions and pointers positive, making every effort to keep their confidence level high. I always reflect on how bad I was when I first started, to let my boys know that it’s okay to miss and  that’s why we practice. I encourage the two of them to only compete with themselves, trying to better their own scores each time, for now. Later we can get into the sport of competing against everyone. Fundamentals is what your are after here. Properly mounting the shotgun, following through the shot and seeing the target. Of course, on the very first round, you’ll be dealing with every aspect from handling the gun, to loading and unloading, and shooting. Not to mention, all of their nerves that come along with the first shoot.

After I took my ten year old out for his first round, in which he only hit a few, he told me that was one of the funnest things he had ever done. I made a big deal of the targets he hit and it inspired him to do better. Now just a few rounds later he consistently hits 10-13 clays with his single shot .410. Not too shabby.

Confidence is the key to any shotgunner, but especially with kids. If your kids are like mine and they have to be good at everything, keeping their dobber up is sometimes tough starting out. Concentrate on the good things they do, and reinforce, positively, the areas they need improvement in.

The average age of hunters in the US is 49 years old. We need all the young hunters we can get, so  they can pass the traditions on for generations to come. 

Time to RELOAD!

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

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May 18, 2009

Do Dove Decoys Work

Filed under: How To, Hunting — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 9:23 am

Every year I see hunters placing decoys around the dove fields. I’ve always wondered if they were worth their salt. Let’s find out…

Ducks, Geese, Turkeys are all susceptible to decoys. With ducks being the most social of the game birds. These flock oriented birds find safety when they spot others of their own kind. But are these things true when comes to dove?

Dove do respond to decoys. They just respond in a little different manner. Unlike ducks and geese, decoys don’t cause dove to come out of flight, but they can make them alter their flight pattern. When they see the decoy, they typically make a fly-by to check them out. Dove see the decoys as a safe zone, and if you put yourself in a good position you can be there to spoil that thought.

The decoys will not eliminate your need to pick a good spot. A decoy will not change a major flight path for dove. They can alter it enough to bring more dove in range. Do your homework and pick the right spot before placing the decoys.

Place your decoys in pairs on the ground. Dove usually fly in pairs and by placing the decoys in pairs, you make them look more natural. Don’t go overboard though, a dozen decoys is plenty.  The decoys should be 20 to 30 yards out from your spot.

Another good strategy with decoys is to place them in elevated position, e.g. tree limbs or fence lines. This also makes the use of decoys appear more natural. Avoid putting the elevated decoys too close to your position. Keep them in range(20-30 yards) but away from your immediate position, by doing this you will keep the attention away from you and avoid spooking the dove.

If you are hunting by a body of water there are a few different techniques. Dove usually land in an elevated position before going to drink. Therefore, the key is to have more decoys elevated than not. Put a single pair on the ground and several elevated. When placing the decoys on the ground place them in at a spot on the bank with little to no vegetation. Position yourself in shotgun range from the decoys and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Decoys are not essential when dove hunting, but by using them wisely, they can bring more dove into your sights than there would have been otherwise.

Decoys can be extremely helpful later in the season when the shooting is a little slower.

Time to RELOAD! 

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

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May 2, 2009

What is gun fit?

Filed under: How To, Shooting — Tags: , , — admin @ 9:12 pm

I was doing some research on gun fit and came across this article at shotgunworld.com. It contains an excert from an article in The Caller, from Corpus Christi. I’m positive I couldn’t explain it any better, so here it is…

Anybody who thinks a new shotgun might be the answer for shooting woes is … absolutely right.
It’s a fitting answer to a fitting subject based on the fact that some shotguns naturally fit some shooters better than others.

What every wingshooter needs is a shotgun that comes naturally and comfortably to the shooter’s shoulder so that the shooter’s eyes are looking straight down the top of the barrel, picture perfect every time.

The problem is that many standard, off-the-shelf shotguns are designed to the dimensions of an “average” right-handed shooter who is 5-foot-9, weighs 165 pounds, has a 33-inch arm length and wears a size 40-regular suit.

That leaves out most men over 40, many women and children and all lefties.

Everyone, of course, would love to have a custom-fitted, custom-made Purdy from old England. Getting one, however, would require a two-year wait and the cost of a couple Corvettes.

A custom-fitted Beretta by Orvis would get the price down to four digits, but that was still too expensive for my budget.

Then I talked to Col. Tom Hanzel, former coach of national champion skeet teams at Trinity University in San Antonio and an expert shooting instructor.

“Every now and then I run into an individual who can handle a standard shotgun, but it’s about one out of 100,” Hanzel said, noting that proper fit was a “necessity” for maximizing shooting skill.

But the coach also said getting a fitted shotgun was not expensive. In many cases, a gunsmith could adjust a standard shotgun to fit a shooter for as little as $50 to $60 (such as at the Texas Gun Shop in Corpus Christi).

I remembered Hanzel’s words when I met gunsmith John Smyrl, who did fitting work for South Texas shooters before departing this earthly plane a couple of years ago.

For his work, the gunsmith used what is called a “try gun” with a special butt stock that can be adjusted in numerous ways to fit any shooter. Once the try gun fits, the measurements are duplicated on the shooter’s own shotgun, often at minimal costs.

Often, a skilled gunsmith can spot the most common problems of shotgun fit by simply eyeballing a shooter holding a shotgun in a shooting position.
My suggestion to Smyrl was a before-and-after test, using my own shotgun, to see if there was enough difference in fit to make a difference.

I produced an older model but standard Remington 870 pump gun in 12 gauge.

As a simple eyeball test, Smyrl had me repeatedly mount the shotgun to my shoulder while he stood at the barrel end and checked the position of my eyes in relation to the top of the barrel.

“I can tell you right now that this gun doesn’t fit you worth a darn, but let’s take it out to the range and see how you shoot it,” he said.

We did.

Since my focus was on dove hunting, we set up on a skeet range to try shooting clay birds on various crossing angles. To better judge the fit of my shotgun, Smryl suggested I not shoulder it until a “bird” suddenly appeared.

I broke 13 of the first 25 birds and 15 of the next 25, for a total of 28 out of 50. That was better than I expected, but nothing to brag about.

Smyrl made little comment until the final shot was fired, then he got down to the basics of shotgun fit.

The measurements that count most, he said, are “cast,” “length of pull” and “drop of comb.” Cast is the measurement of how the centerline of the stock fits to the centerline of the receiver. As the stock varies off the centerline to the left or to the right, it is said to be either “cast on” or “cast off.”

Many standard shotguns have a slight cast off for right-handed shooters, which can be a disadvantage for southpaws. Smyrl said many shooters could benefit from a cast that centers their eyes on a shotgun’s sighting rib.
Length of pull is the measurement of distance between the butt of the shotgun’s stock and the trigger.

For a simple test of length of pull, Smyrl said a shooter can bend his or her shooting arm into a right angle at the elbow with the palm open and flat. Then, place the butt of the shotgun against the crook of the elbow, with the receiver flat against the palm. If the shotgun trigger falls about the first joint of the index finger, the length of pull is about right.

Drop of comb is the distance which the comb section of the stock just behind the grip drops below the top of the receiver. Since the shooter anchors his or her cheek to the stock behind the comb, the drop determines the level of the eye to the top of the receiver.

“The problem with your shotgun,” Smyrl said, “is that there’s too much drop in the stock. It’s too low for you, but that’s common for a lot of shooters.

“When you get your cheekbone down on the stock, you’re seeing too much of the back of the receiver. So when you shoot, you are lifting your cheek off the stock to see the target better, and you’re shooting high,” he explained.

So custom fitting my shotgun amounted mostly to adjusting drop of comb, a simple task of slightly bending metal at the back of the receiver.
Back at the skeet range, I shot worse than ever, breaking only 9 of 25 birds, while eliciting a few chuckles from the gunsmith.

“Look,” he said, “you’re shotgun fits right, but you haven’t changed your old habit of lifting up your head when you shoot, which puts you way off target now. I want you to plant your cheekbone on that stock and concentrate on keeping it there.”

I broke 38 of the next 50 birds.

Some misses came when I lifted my head, but I wasn’t complaining.

The difference between my “before” score of 28 out of 50 and the “after” score of 38 out of 50 represented an improvement of about 35 percent.

It was a fitting exercise.

————————————————————————————

After reading that, I’m thinking about having my 1187 fit.

Check out www.gunfitter.com.

Time to RELOAD!

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

Dove, Dogs, & Shotguns

 

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May 1, 2009

Walking the field

Filed under: How To, Hunting — Tags: , , — admin @ 9:35 pm

Perhaps my favorite way to hunt dove is to walk the field for those dove that  have lighted in the field. Of course, if you are in a big shoot with many other shotguns, you can’t do this for obvious safety reasons.  However, later in the season this method can be highly productive and allow you to bag many more dove.

In a perfect world, all you would have to do would be, pick a good spot and wait. Sometimes this works, but it is my experience, if you get off the chair and walk with a purpose, you will be much more successful.

A couple of years ago in Donna about the third weekend into the season  I implemented this strategy and had great success. We were hunting on about 200 acres and the dove were flying but I knew we were missing a lot of them.  With  so much area and only three hunters  the dove had too many places to escape. After watching the the patterns the dove were flying my brother and I went for a calculated walk. The field had goat weed and old corn stalks for food. There were cut-outs or strips mowed out about 20 yards wide the width of the field. We noticed that the dove were landing in these cut-outs. My brother started about 50 yards in and headed down the field and I did the same from the other side. This way we covered as much of the field with two shotguns as possible ( Dad was on the other end ready to take out all the dove we pushed his way). The results for all three of us were fabulous. Almost everytime I crossed from the taller brush into the cut-outs two to three white-wings flew from the ground up. For those that don’t know, a dove makes a distinct but short, low pitched, burst of whistles as they take flight (music to my ears). Sometimes this is  the  best  alarm to locate the dove, mount your shotgun and shoot a dove , who is rapidly approaching MACH 1.  As we crossed the field, the dove that we didn’t get a shot on were heading right into Dad’s Beretta. We effectively covered 200 acres with three shotguns, and everyone limited out. By getting up and walking, we kept the dove stirred up, had a blast, and got shots on dove that would have otherwise never been seen. It’s like a combination of quail and dove hunting. The main difference is dove will take flight earlier than quail but a little slower. However, once they get going, they are gone.  Let’s look at some things to remember before you take off walking for dove.

  1. Observe and make a plan: Pick your initial spot to hunt and stay there until the morning flights begin to slow, Pay close attention (when not shooting) to where you see dove leaving flight to eat. Make sure you will not be walking into any one’s gun range, this is a common courtesy as well as a safety issue. Once you’ve observed these things, then establish where you will walk and how you can cover the area you will be walking most effectively. If I’m by myself, diagonals are my choice. If I have a partner, parallels are the way to go. Don’t detour from your path (unless looking for downed birds) , as you will feel better about covering the area if you are not walking randomly.
  2. Load properly: For me there are two types of walks; test walks, and full blown walks. On a test walk, you are seeking to learn if it’s worth your while to go on a full blown walk. Usually a test walk is straight line out and back. On these walks there is no need to carry a lot of extra weight, just some shells in case you hit pay dirt. Full blown walks are when you’ve decided it is going to be productive, and will be gone awhile. These walks require almost a full load. Bring plenty of shells, it sucks to have to head back early for lack of shells. Also, bring your water bottle and your dog’s water bottle (if there is a difference between the two). In South Texas, lack of water can cripple a good hunt. Mosquito spray may also be a necessity, depending on your location.
  3. Be ready: There is a big difference between walking, and hunting while walking. Dove will fly early and if you are not ready you won’t even get a shot worth taking. Keep you finger on the safety and off hand on the forearm of your shotgun. Stay focused and don’t let your dog get very far in front of you as she will spook the dove up out of your gun range. 

Even though sitting in the back of the truck is more comfortable, walking the field is more productive. If you get out in the field you will find a whole new aspect to dove hunting. Walking up dove presents a challenge to even the most expert shotgunner, but it can make for a better dove hunt, even on days when the  hunting is a little slow.

Time to RELOAD!

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April 30, 2009

A bad mount can ruin your day

Filed under: How To, Shooting — Tags: , — admin @ 12:07 pm

Mounting your shotgun is vital to successful shooting. It is also vital to being able to shoot numerous rounds. I’ve found myself with bruises on my shoulder and cheek bone from not placing the gun in the shoulder pocket correctly, or not holding the shotgun tight enough. My article on shooting fundamentals goes over this in detail.

In an article in Field & Stream I came across a picture worth a thousand words about properly mounting your shotgun. The guy was shooting sporting clays with a cheap over/under shotgun. He noticed something was seriously wrong about half way through……..

I’d say something went wrong, many times. Although we don’t know what kind of shells he was shooting, we do know that he wasn’t mounting the gun correctly. For a list of his injuries go to Field & Stream’s article about this

The bottom line is, unless you want this to be you,  mount your gun correctly, everytime. This guy won’t be shooting anything for a long time.

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April 27, 2009

How to pattern your shotgun

Filed under: How To, Shooting — Tags: , , — admin @ 10:14 pm

Do you miss a lot? Have you ever wondered what the difference between a Modified cylinder and an Improved Cylinder is? What about the difference between a 7.5 or 8 shot load? All these questions can be answered with a couple of boxes of shells, some paper, and time. Patterning a shotgun can be very valuable to any bird hunter. Let’s look at how.

First off let’s be clear, I’m not trying to show you how to pattern for gun fit, I’m trying to help you identify how to make your gun, as it is, the most effective when dove hunting.

  1. Get set up: Find a place that you can shoot without being pressed for time. Acquire some 4′x4′ poster board or sheets of paper (no less than 40″ squares) and put one on a sheet of plywood for a backstop. Make sure to bring the chokes and shells for the type of game you will be patterning for. Set yourself up at a distance that you normally shoot from. For dove, probably 20-25 yards will be your best bet.
  2. Start Shooting: Unfortunately, you can’t do this by shooting one time with each variation and think you are done. You can shoot the same choke and same load five times and each will be different, but there will be significant patterns to pay attention to. Label each shot and mark the area where the pellets are most concentrated and then draw a large circle around the rest of the pattern (12-15 inch radius depending on how tight a pattern you are shooting). Shoot at least four to five times for each variation you wish to evaluate, i.e. four shots with modified 8 shot , modified 7.5 shot etc. etc. After you’ve wore out the plywood, it’s time to study the results.
  3. Evaluate: As you begin to look at these pieces of paper look for consistency. Everyone will be a little different but there wiil be patterns in each variation. Imagine or make an outline of a dove a put it inside the circle in various places to see if you have places that would have only landed one or two pellets or  missed completely. If so, use smaller shot, or a heavier load. When looking at the difference between chokes, pay attention to how deadly the pattern is on outer quadrants. Chokes can go bad. If you notice a significant void in the same area of the shot, shoot a few more times to be sure. If it’s still there, replace the choke. Better to replace the choke than miss the dove and start the mental war that comes with missing. For more on shooting, click here

I know. this sounds like loads of fun, yeah right. However, you might thank me on the next hunt if you find a problem before you go. Knowing how your gun shoots is vital to being consistent in field.

 Time to RELOAD!

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April 26, 2009

Picking a spot in the field

Filed under: How To, Hunting — Tags: , — admin @ 9:48 am

Who hasn’t done it, shown up for a big dove hunt and put yourself in a bad spot. It is simply miserable to listen to all the blasting around you as you contemplate everything from moving spots to what you did to deserve this. The best bullets, most expensive shotgun, and best trained dog cannot make up for picking a bad spot when dove hunting. Let’s look at how we can prevent singing the ‘no dove blues’.

First we will look at the three basic ways to get a good spot when dove hunting and then we’ll breakdown what to look for when scouting.

  1. Scout the field: If you don’t have a sixth sense like my dad does, then it will pay to do a little scouting before you show up for the hunt. You can learn a lot about the dove in just one afternoon. Pay attention to their flight patterns, the sun, and the time they start to fly. Pick a few spots that look promising, just in case someone beats you to your first choice.
  2. Early bird gets the worm: And the early hunter gets the spot and the birds. It’s really not a good plan to scout out your spot and come driving up too late to get it. Surely, if you’ve picked a decent spot it won’t last long. Whether you are hunting the morning hunt or afternoon, don’t dally, get to the field, take your spot and prepare to be the one making everyone else jealous.
  3. Be still: If your new to dove hunting, then you probably haven’t witnessed a pair of incoming dove break into evasive maneuvers on the slightest movement by you. After a dove has been shot at a couple of times or, as Tim Lilley from Game & Fish calls it, educated, they become very jumpy and will change course on any ground movement. This can be devastating to even the best spot. Expert dove hunter, Will Jester, thinks that being still and keeping your dog still is more important than the fanciest camo you can buy. Sure, you’ll want to wear some camo but if you are jumping up to shoot way to early the camo won’t help.

Those are the basic steps to getting a good spot to hunt. Now let’s look at what actually look for when scouting or looking at a field for the first time.

  1. The sun: Get your bearings and figure out east from west and then position yourself with the sun at your back. The sun can really hinder your ability to spot dove much less shoot dove. If having it at your back is not possible try to face where it is not directly in your eyes.
  2. Structure:  Dove structure is basically something other than food or water that attracts birds. These structures effect the dove’s flight patterns in a field. It could be anything from a group of trees to an old barn in the field. These structures will be a staging area for the dove to hold at until they leave to feed or water. Finding a position within range of these structures can make for some prime real estate in the field.
  3. Bare Spots: A bare spot in the field can be a great place to find holding dove. Dove need to have a certain amount of gravel and sand in there diet. Will Jester says, “These areas can be ideal, food on the ground all over the field will obviously scatter and disperse the doves. A hunter sitting near a visible patch of grit will often get a concentration of birds headed for one place that offers more than one of the things they need.” Of course you don’t want to sit in the bare spot, just in shotgun range of the spot.
  4. Watering Holes: Dove  usually go to water after they eat. Keep this in mind if your considering setting up near water. If there are many hunters set up where the food is, they will get the first crack at the dove. Don’t get me wrong there can be some fantastic shoots by water, but if it is a large field with many hunters, I wouldn’t reccommend it as your primary spot.

If you take these points into consideration when scouting, or heaven forbid, just showing up to hunt, your chances of a successful hunt will improve greatly.

Time to RELOAD!

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April 20, 2009

Shotgunning Tips

Filed under: How To, Shooting — Tags: , , , — admin @ 10:32 am

I was looking through some past articles on Field & Stream’s website site and came across an article with some very good tips on five tough shots for dove hunters. It covers:

  1. The Incomer You See Forever
  2. The Dove With Its Jets On
  3. The Long Crosser
  4. The Dove That Comes Over Your Head From Behind
  5. The High Overhead Dove

The full article  gives some detailed advice on each of the above types of shots.

Time to RELOAD!

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